February 10, 2011

Starting Seedlings: Equipment and Supplies (Part 2)

(Continued from the previous post)


4) Lighting: I would consider lighting to be the most important piece of seed starting equipment. The amount of light from brightest windowsill in your house might be enough for a houseplant, but it is probably not enough for vegetable seedlings. I would highly recommend growing your seedlings under artificial light (unless you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse). I grow my seedlings in the basement where very little natural light is available, so artificial light is a necessity.

If you have the money, you could purchase a high intensity lighting system such as a high pressure sodium lamp or metal halide lamp. These lamps are common in greenhouse production. High intensity lamps can also be used in the home, but they generate a lot of heat. The warmth can benefit plants, but can also make them dry out quickly. High intensity lamps are quite expensive to purchase and will be more expensive to run in the long term than other options. Generally, these are not appropriate for hobby gardeners.

Less expensive lighting options include common household bulbs. I would advise against using incandescent bulbs because they are very energy inefficient, fairly dim, and may cause your seedlings to grow very tall and spindly (due to the distribution of photons they emit). The best option for a home grower may be fluorescent lamps. I use five fluorescent shop-light fixtures for seed starting. Each fixture holds two four-foot bulbs (so I have a total of 10 bulbs). Full spectrum grow lights intended for plant lighting can be purchased at most hardware stores, but they are usually quite expensive. Instead, you can use one cool-white bulb and one warm-white bulb in each fixture (this mimics the full spectrum fairly well). In my area, a shoplight and two bulbs can be purchased for less than $20. If this seems like a big investment, start with one fixture and add more each year as your addiction to seed starting progresses (and believe me, it will). The bulbs will need to be replaced as they start to dim. Don't wait for the bulbs to burn out. By then they've already dimmed so much that they're not doing your seedlings much good. Assuming you are only lighting seeds for a 16 hours each day for a few months each year, your bulbs should last at least a couple years.


Fluorescent shop-lights are easily adjusted and provide sufficient light for starting seeds indoors.
Hang your lamps above your growing area. Most shop-lights come with chains for hanging, but you may have to purchase additional chain for added length). If hanging isn't an option (if you don't want your living room looking like a torture chamber) prop up the lights on bricks, books, or something else sturdy. Place your bulbs no more than 2-3 inches from the plant canopy. Fluorescent lamps are fairly cool to the touch, so don't worry about frying your leaves if they do touch the bulb. The lamps will need to be raised as the plants grow taller (either cinch up the chains or add more bricks). For ease of use, put your light on a timer and give your plants 16 hours of light each day.


Use a timer to turn on and off your lamps each day
To be continued...

February 9, 2011

Starting Seedlings: Equipment and Supplies (Part 1)

The year 2011 will be my fifth year starting my own seeds indoors. Each year I learn a few more tricks as well as identify a few more problems. By no means am I an expert on seed starting, but I feel like I'm continually improving my techniques each season.

The basic equipment needed for starting seeds indoors includes:

1) Growing Space- either a countertop, table, grow-shelf, or large area of open floor space. In two different apartments, I have started seeds in areas of unused living room floor. Now that I own a home, I use the built-in benches in my basement (I'm assuming there was a workshop down there at some point). Whatever you use, you'll probably want to cover the area in something waterproof and dirt-proof. Garbage bags will work just fine and old shower curtains are excellent.

2) All-In-One Kit: I feel like in-home seed starting is becoming more and more popular in recent years, so the necessary supplies are becoming increasingly easier to locate. All-In-One kits can range from fairly cheap to inexpensive depending on what they include. On the cheaper end of the spectrum (if you are planning on starting just a few seeds) are windowsill seed starting kits. These usually include a windowsill sized tray, humidity dome, and a number of just-add-water peat pellets. Assuming you get enough sunlight from your window, all you have to do is buy the seeds. Mid-range seed starting kits might include a heating mat. More expensive kits can be purchased that include a complete growth lighting setup. However, if you are starting seeds on a larger scale (like me), all-in-one kits are not very cost effective. With a little ingenuity, you can come up with a setup tailored to your own needs, and it will probably cost you much less money! If that's more your style, continue on with the rest of the list.


3) Watering Can: This one is pretty self-explanatory. However, for very tiny seedlings, watering cans can create a deluge! For young seedlings, use a small cup to dole out the water. Watering from the bottom is another option. If your pots are in a tray, you can pour water directly into the tray. The plants will suck water up through their drainage hole. This generally results in more uniformly moist media. However, don't let your seedlings sit submerged in water for long. Once the moisture has reached the surface soil in each pot, drain off the excess water (or the roots will become oxygen starved and rot).

To be continued...


February 8, 2011

Starting Seedlings: “Days to Maturity” Explained

If you've ever looked at a seed packet you almost always see the number of days to maturity or harvest printed on the back. This number varies widely by crop and also by cultivar within each crop. For crops that are started indoors and then transplanted to the garden (like tomato, pepper, etc.), this number represent the number of days from transplant to first harvest (not from seed sow to first harvest). However, if you are direct seeding, the days to maturity includes seed sow through harvest. The days to maturity rating can help you plan your garden in two ways.
      1. You can select crop varieties that will successfully mature well within the length of your particular growing season. People in higher latitudes generally have a shorter growing season that people closer to the equator. For example, if you live in Michigan, you probably don't want to grow tomatoes that have any more than 90 days to maturity. While your plants may set fruit, they may not ripen before the first fall frost.
      2. You can select several varieties of the same crop that vary in maturity time in order to extend the harvest period. Rather than having a glut of tomatoes all at once, you can plant early, mid-season, and late-maturing varieties and have tomatoes all summer.
Take care that you don't rely too much on the days to maturity ratings. The number given on the seed packet is just a generalization. It does not take into account your particular climate, soil type, growing practice (organic, conventional, etc.), or the wild fluctuations in temperature, sunlight, or precipitation that can occur in your garden from year to year. In fact, if you compare the same cultivar of crop across 5 different seed companies, they'll often give 5 different numbers for days to maturity (because they usually give the days to maturity for their own particular area).

February 7, 2011

Starting Seedlings: Transplanting Seedings versus Direct Sowing

I've come to realize (after ignoring books and the advice of others for several years) that many types of vegetable and flower seeds are best sown directly outside. For years I was under the impression that starting everything indoors and transplanting outside was the way to the fastest harvest.  However, this is not always the case. For example, lettuce seedlings grown indoors (at least with my seed starting setup) are usually very weak and spindly. Transplanting them can be a nightmare.  I usually end up destroying a few plants while trying to wrangle them out of the cell pack (their tiny baby leaves tend to stick to one another, resulting in some deadly tug-of-war). Then the plants have to recover from transplant shock and settle in.

Direct sown lettuce
Last year I did an experiment. I started some lettuce seedlings inside. On transplant day, I also sowed some seeds directly outside. Strangely enough, the first harvestable date was almost the same for both! I've had the same results with other crops to. This year, I'm planning on direct sowing almost all of my leafy greens. Best of all, this will free up a lot of space indoors for other vegetables!

Here are my suggestions for starting indoors versus outdoors:

Sow Inside:
Broccoli
Cucumber
Squash
Zucchini
Pumpkin
Gourd
Tomato
Pepper
Melon
Tomatillo
Fava Bean
Groundcherry


Direct Sow:
Arugula
Cilantro
Lettuce
Pak Choi
Mizuna
Zinnia
Turnip
Carrot
Radish
Parsnip
Beet
Swiss Chard
Spinach
Green Bean
Soy Bean
Peas

February 6, 2011

New Year's Carrots


I never thought I'd be harvesting from my garden in January! I pulled these carrots out of my garden on New Year's Day (we had unusually warm, 55 degree weather).  I've never been good at growing carrots, but these sized up fairly well (even if they are all short and stubby). I finally got around to cooking them last night and the carrot flavor was so much stronger than store-bought carrots. Yum!

February 5, 2011

Washing the "Dishes"

I finally got around to washing and disinfecting some of my plastic trays and cell packs. Despite the fact that I reuse almost all of my pots, my collection just keeps getter bigger and bigger each year.
Washing pots in the bathtub.

February 4, 2011

Photo Friday: Digital Watercolors

Sometimes I like to play around with my digital photos...





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